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HP Elitebook 2560P Owner's Lounge [version 2.0]

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Today, the 2560p arrived. It has some minor dents and scratches, but otherwise like new. Battery is also in great condition.

Will write short review once the CPU arrives.

But I absolutely LOVE the sound card. It even surpassed 2530p! Noise levels are below -90dB and the DAC is excellent (supports full 24bit / 192kHz), the sound is even better than on some external cards. Pretty amazing!

I was able to visually separate instruments even in some of my very dull and poorly mastered tracks. Output power is also above average.

I'm glad IDT didn't remove Stereo Mix, I can talk all day how that functionality makes broadcasting and podcasting 6 times easier.

I don't mind the extra weight, since I'm putting there SSD which is lighter than the currently installed dual-platter Toshiba, overall I'm really happy with my purchase. Let's see what the extra 5MB in L3 cache on i7-2860QM do with HD3000 performance, right now I'm getting 4750 score in 3DMark06 with i5-2520M (1366x768).

It should arrive within two weeks together with 100Wh battery. :friendly_wink:

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Finally yesterday the i7-2860QM arrived so I naturally played with it for a while. Here are my findings:

Highest turbo due to TDP throttling was x27, single threaded the CPU does 3.6GHz turbo. Compared to i7-4770K the efficiency is still OK and even surpassed the newer Haswell on lower multipliers

post-8842-1449499869195_thumb.png

Performace measured in Performancetest 8.0 on Win7 x64. Score measured for every multiplier, then divided by stable Watt figure in Throttlestop.

However Passmarks are not reliable indicator of performance across platforms as it penalizes the use of 32bit OS and generally include CPU features, rather than focusing on raw power.

Real world difference is between 4-6% on same multiplier.

post-8842-14494998692279_thumb.png

3dMark06 score went from 4750 to 5053 most likely due to extra 5M of L3 cache.

Idle package consumption went up by 0.2W (2.9W to 3.1W)

However I've encountered several issues - when GPU runs on Max Performance, it forces x24 multiplier on CPU. This didn't happen with i5-2520m. Can this be possibly rectified? x220 with i7-2640M does the same thing.

Still few more mods to go... :)

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However I've encountered several issues - when GPU runs on Max Performance, it forces x24 multiplier on CPU. This didn't happen with i5-2520m. Can this be possibly rectified? x220 with i7-2640M does the same thing.

Your package CPU max TDP is 45W.

With the iGPU control panel set to 'maximum battery' where the iGPU is in low power mode, most of the 45W is given to the processing component so you can get a x27 4-core multi.

With the iGPU control panel set to 'maximum performance' where the iGPU consumer more power, less of the 45W is given to the processing component so you can only reach x24 4-core multi.

Only workarounds to get max CPU and GPU performance are:

1. attempt to unlock the TDP settings in the BIOS which AFAIK, nobody has managed to do as yet. Furthermore, 45W is about the max the 2560P/2570P's cooling system can handle anyway.

2. use an eGPU via the expresscard slot so the iGPU isn't used. That's significantly faster than the iGPU.

Looking forward to hearing more about your "Inventions" so far in your sig - 293Whr 24-cell Li-Ion portable battery, "slow charge" resistor mod for 25xxp, how to fit mSATA into 2560p/2570p, 40W Acer adaptor - lighter alternative to weighty 65W (153g vs 262g).

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Your package CPU max TDP is 45W.

With the iGPU control panel set to 'maximum battery' where the iGPU is in low power mode, most of the 45W is given to the processing component so you can get a x27 4-core multi.

With the iGPU control panel set to 'maximum performance' where the iGPU consumer more power, less of the 45W is given to the processing component so you can only reach x24 4-core multi.

Perhaps it wasn't entirely clear. This is definitely not TDP issue. If it was, it'd let me run x8 instead of x24 but no. The problem is I cannot run lower multiplier than x24 with Max Performance. This happened on i7-2640M as well, which is AFAIK 35W.

I guess it can be fixed through MSR, alternatively it's just bad driver version.

2. use an eGPU via the expresscard slot so the iGPU isn't used. That's significantly faster than the iGPU.

Sure, but who has the extra juice in their batteries to power hungry eGPU :D

Also most laptops don't output 12V

Looking forward to hearing more about your "Inventions" so far in your sig - 293Whr 24-cell Li-Ion portable battery

post-8842-14494998693023_thumb.jpg

Weight - about 1.25kg, but provide more than enough runtime even for older, less efficient laptops, such as R60.

post-8842-1449499869284_thumb.jpg

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Perhaps it wasn't entirely clear. This is definitely not TDP issue. If it was, it'd let me run x8 instead of x24 but no. The problem is I cannot run lower multiplier than x24 with Max Performance. This happened on i7-2640M as well, which is AFAIK 35W.

I guess it can be fixed through MSR, alternatively it's just bad driver version.

Did you try using Throttlestop to set a multiplier lower than x24? Ensure you follow the correct installation procedure for Throttlestop by setting the power plan CPU % min to 100 for both battery and AC. That way Throttlestop will be given exclusive access to control CPU multis.

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Yes, the procedure was the same for i5-2520M, once is iGPU fully engaged, it locks out EIST below x24 apparently. I can increase it all the way to x36,but not decrease it.

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Today quite odd thing happened. I was able to achieve x28 at even lower Watt figure than x27.

I've temporarily "improved" the cooling with vacuum cleaner and pulled out the hot air more rapidly with 1.2kW engine :D

Managed to get temps below 70°C at turbo and with that x28 appeared and got engaged. Strangely at 35.1W instead of 36.5W with x27.

Looks like the CPU has lower efficiency when running hot.

Anyway the cooling has to be improved. I'm getting 65°C at x14@13W freshly repasted and with service door opened.

Will try that copper shim + 0.18mm copper foil between CPU and heatsink.

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This is how the AC adapter looks like when finished.

180 grams versus 290 and about 3 times more convenient.

40W - runs flawlessly 2530p and non-turbo 2560p/2570p.

I've also replaced stock cable with Van Damme Unbalanced Pro Patch with silver plated OFC copper core - much lighter and more flexible.

Tested the OL protection, kicks in at about 2.35A and shuts down the DC part for 3 seconds. No explosions for this one :)

Marked as Efficiency level V - based on my testing dissipates less than 1W in 5W load, 0W under no-load condition.

Played CS:Source on 2530p while charging 9-cell. Adaptor passed with flying colours, temps were below 45°C.

post-8842-14494998780461_thumb.jpg

I'll write a short DYI, that is if anyone is interested...

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Hello All:

I need some help with the expresscard/34 slot. I have a 2-port esata card (port multiplier) but it is not recognized.

All the drivers are installed and there are no "unknown devices". The drivers for the iogear esata pm are the inf type, not the exe type.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

(PS - the onboard esata/USB2.0 port is not port multiplier type)

Thanks!

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Hello All:

I need some help with the expresscard/34 slot. I have a 2-port esata card (port multiplier) but it is not recognized.

All the drivers are installed and there are no "unknown devices". The drivers for the iogear esata pm are the inf type, not the exe type.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

(PS - the onboard esata/USB2.0 port is not port multiplier type)

Thanks!

There is an option to enable the expresscard slot in the BIOS. Ensure that is enabled. Once done, the esata card should appear as a device on the expresscard port. You can get a listing of devices on the ports using Aida64 downloadable trial software.

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Thanks.... I think I already checked the BIOS but will check again... The Laptop is out of warranty so don't know if a repair is cost worthy. I did buy a USB-to-esata adapter with port multiplier and it works OK.

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Hello Everyone,

I am Trying do dust off the HP2560P topic.

I am sorry, my first message will be short due to time constraint.

First a Big thanks from everyone, Techinferno and Nando for all the readings on Internet about the HP2560P. I have been lurking there and there for months and finally decided to post.

I got one for free and I am now looking to replace my MacbookPro 13 mid 2010 fully with this computer + 22"inch screen + EGPU setup.

Andrew479, do you still possess an HP2560P? (Reading your sign, I fear not.) I am also looking for an HP2570P but the investment is just too much for me at the moment.I am having few issues to set up an I7-2760QM properly (Got it at a good price) and I was hoping I could ask you and Nando a few questions.

I have it in my computer and found the fan active much more often (45W and QM blablabla....yes but....) as well as the temp quite high. I think it might be:

- 1st : no name thermal paste => Going to be replaced by Artic Silver 5 next week and have a copper mod on the heatsink. I hope to have better temp when both change will be done.

- 2st: might have messed up with the processor minimal and maximum power state in the energy options (The fan are always on in energy saver mode but not always in normal mode.).

I also took the plunge to do an EGPU with a 750TI low profile and a PE4L 2.1b. I will post updates about the future setup here. I am quite excited for that.

I will only be able to do the hardware change next week as I am travelling right now. Meanwhile I am trying to optimize whatever I can on my laptop while eagerly waiting to come back.

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Andrew479, do you still possess an HP2560P? (Reading your sign, I fear not.) I am also looking for an HP2570P but the investment is just too much for me at the moment.I am having few issues to set up an I7-2760QM properly (Got it at a good price) and I was hoping I could ask you and Nando a few questions.

I have it in my computer and found the fan active much more often (45W and QM blablabla....yes but....) as well as the temp quite high. I think it might be:

- 1st : no name thermal paste => Going to be replaced by Artic Silver 5 next week and have a copper mod on the heatsink. I hope to have better temp when both change will be done.

- 2st: might have messed up with the processor minimal and maximum power state in the energy options (The fan are always on in energy saver mode but not always in normal mode.).

Yes I still have the 2560p, even though it's listed for sale. It's not in my sig as there's character limit.

AS5 is quite outdated, there are TIMs that'll give you better results. I'm using Gelid GC Extreme

If you're planning to invest into 2570p be advised that it's not 'better than 2560p' in all aspects. There's low PWM issue which can't be easily fixed and limits the normal usage of the laptop.

i7-2760QM is a good choice. Sandy Bridge CPUs tend to be more consistent in their PVS rating (efficiency) than Ivy.

Adding copper shims b/w CPU and heatsink proved inefficient in my setup, and even worsened the results, with 5°C more on CPU. Better idea is to drill bottom cover beneath the fan, glue there iron mesh, then add 35x35x2.5mm copper shim on the heatsink (not between the CPU) and on it solder 200x100x0.5mm copper mesh. Cut leading holes into the mesh (use the bottom lid as 'template') and that should be it.

Once done, I'll post photos, it's easy and reversible (though you need spare service door) so it won't void your warranty.

i7-2xxxQM are most efficient around x12-x14 multiplier. Use Throttlestop instead of Windows power scheme.

Hopefully that'll answer your question.

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Andrew, Thank you for your answer and the information related to the I7-2760QM.

I am going to dig into the Throttlestop mystery as I am not familiar with the software. I am curious about the mod you are talking about, please do post pictures when you will be finished with it.....if you have time. The idea of digging holes in the case is giving me chills. Adding copper between the CPU and heatsink was not in my plan.

Ultimately, I am using the HP2560P because the I7 + Egpu could represent a nice improvement in my workflow for a very low cost. It has been a chore recently to edit RAW pictures on my MBP despite doing a lot of effort to make lightroom more efficient.

I am lurking ebay times to times "in case of". I have quite a lot of stuff to sell. I want to find a system where a quad core will work without taxing too much on the heatsink while being compatible with an EGPU (Ideally without having to pay a premium for such a system.).

Upgrades I am finding interesting price/quality wise are:

- Dell e6440 (Available at good price in France thanks to student discount.)

- Lenovo T430s (Surprisingly available at good prices/quantity here.. Bonus: I7 version with TB.)

Ultimately, finding the most plug 'n' play solution will suit me. While waiting to upgrade system again, I am sure I am going to spend a lovely time with my HP2560p.

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Hi,

I read you're based in France. Just to let you know, if you think you're not up for the cooling mod I mentioned, I can drill it for you (I'm based in EU).

Basically the idea is this:

32x32x2.5mm copper shims on the heatsink to enhance its heat soak abilities

200x100x0.5mm copper mesh to help spread the heat across lower area near the service door - it's quite convenient as you can thermally join the laptop base with it.

Holes in service door in fan and optical bay area - should help the system breathe & direct the cool air through the hot mesh which in turn improves the cooling by a lot.

Final small mod - remove fan screws, use Noctua fan assembly (mainly the silicone screws), cut its head and use dual sided thin tape to secure it to laptop base and the fan. This should/will remove the annoying fan whine.

Still dunno how could 2560p/2570p pass the 35W TDP test, as it's CLEARLY not built to dissipate that much heat. Loading my CPU in default configuration to 35W resulted in temps 95 - 98°C, 84°C with service door removed.

With this mod, I'm expecting to hit max temps below 70°C

I'm currently waiting for the spare service door to be delivered (there's one on Aliexpress).

Once done, I'll take pictures and provided you agree, I can drill yours no problem.

PS: I still can't get used to 2570p, it's just so small to be a workstation. :witless:

PPS: 2560p is running well with ULV i5-2557M BGA to PGA. I have yet to measure its consumption, but seeing its CPU package being 1W under i7-2860QM in idle, I can safely predict 3.6 - 3.8W :)

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Short message from my mobile phone.

I will have the pleasure to continue to mess with my computer tomorrow.

However, i am having problem to get my 750ti to be recognized (Error12). I can get it in windows 8.1 when I plug the EC2C and install the latest nvidia driver but then I have to solve the error 12.

I tried using setup 1.x without success.

I then did a dsdt override following g this method: http://forum.techinferno.com/diy-e-gpu-projects/3539-guide-dsdt-override-simultaneous-igpu-dgpu-egpu-8.html .

I am now facing a BSOD just after the windows logo on startup.

Any solutions to solve this? Would be very much appreciated.

@andrew: much appreciated. I am considering getting rid of the 2760qm for finance purpose....but I want to test first the difference in game vs the i5....only if u manage to get the egpu setup working.

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Short message from my mobile phone.

I will have the pleasure to continue to mess with my computer tomorrow.

However, i am having problem to get my 750ti to be recognized (Error12). I can get it in windows 8.1 when I plug the EC2C and install the latest nvidia driver but then I have to solve the error 12.

I tried using setup 1.x without success.

I then did a dsdt override following g this method: http://forum.techinferno.com/diy-e-gpu-projects/3539-guide-dsdt-override-simultaneous-igpu-dgpu-egpu-8.html .

I am now facing a BSOD just after the windows logo on startup.

Any solutions to solve this? Would be very much appreciated.

@andrew: much appreciated. I am considering getting rid of the 2760qm for finance purpose....but I want to test first the difference in game vs the i5....only if u manage to get the egpu setup working.

Yes, GTX750Ti has requirement for 256MB+16MB of contiguous PCIe config space. The 2560P/2570P cannot accomodate that with the bios locked TOLUD settings. Indeed, a DSDT override is required to allow it's allocation in 36/64-bit PCIe config space. Either that, or grab a GTX670/760/770 (not Maxwell). Those have lesser PCIe config space requirements and so can use Setup 1.30's compaction to fit within 32-bit PCIe config space limits.

The DSDT override procedure to use is at http://forum.techinferno.com/diy-e-gpu-projects/7476-%5Bguide%5D-dsdt-override-fix-error-12-a.html#post102517 .

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Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, after Nando last message I lost some confidence in the 750ti and send it back to the retailer.

At the same retailer, there was a very good discount for a laptop with a 860m/1080p IPS (And good enough for mobile photography on the go.) for 600€. I decided to invest in this and sell what I acquired so far.

I'm sad that after all my reading I couldn't manage to get this working and bought the wrong graphic card. Despite this setback, I want to thank Tech Inferno for the wonderful reading and knowledge I acquired on this forum.

If anyone is interested, I am now selling a PE4L 2.1b with a 120w ac adapter in Europe.

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Hi,

I read you're based in France. Just to let you know, if you think you're not up for the cooling mod I mentioned, I can drill it for you (I'm based in EU).

Basically the idea is this:

32x32x2.5mm copper shims on the heatsink to enhance its heat soak abilities

200x100x0.5mm copper mesh to help spread the heat across lower area near the service door - it's quite convenient as you can thermally join the laptop base with it.

Holes in service door in fan and optical bay area - should help the system breathe & direct the cool air through the hot mesh which in turn improves the cooling by a lot.

Final small mod - remove fan screws, use Noctua fan assembly (mainly the silicone screws), cut its head and use dual sided thin tape to secure it to laptop base and the fan. This should/will remove the annoying fan whine.

Still dunno how could 2560p/2570p pass the 35W TDP test, as it's CLEARLY not built to dissipate that much heat. Loading my CPU in default configuration to 35W resulted in temps 95 - 98°C, 84°C with service door removed.

With this mod, I'm expecting to hit max temps below 70°C

I'd really like to see what this looks like, post pics if possible or let's talk about how to get this done, i could use the help.

btw, new member. been reading here for a while, finally decided to post as i just got my 2560p with i5 2520m in a few days ago. Got it for a steal at $127.

mods on shelf waiting to go in:

240gb SataIII SSD with win7sp1

Half to Full Height Mini (PCI-E) Card Bracket Adapter

Intel Centrino Ultimate-N 6300

Third Tyco Antenna

Expresscard 34 to USB 3.0x2 card

another 4gb of 1333mhz ram for 8 total

Arctic Silver Arcticlean Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier

heatsink lapping

GELID Solutions GC-Extreme thermal paste

displayport to hdmi converter

new 90watt ac adapter

fresh 6 cell battery

to do list:

cut out hole on service door under fan and add black steel honeycomb mesh (never done, need right tools first)

find a cooling solution, either one short server heatsink or just a big piece of copper to fit on top of the heatsink.

possibly tall enough to touch service door to use it as well.

future mods 1-2 months out:

Intel Core i7-2860QM 2.5GHz Quad Core

16gb of ram in dual channel

64gb USB 3.0 nano thumb drive as permanent storage option (need to have optical drive for clients)

exploring screen options (emailed auo to see if they have a brighter option, B125XTN01 shows to be 200 Brightness (cd/m²), not sure if it's an improvement over stock) I know fitment was an issue, but i'll just have to try all of the possible options and see what works.

explore possible cpu fan upgrades, modding for a bettery quality fan that might move a little more air but not be annoying loud.

9 cell battery

research a 1080p webcam option mod

taller antivibration rubber case feet for extra height and air draw.

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Well I installed the SSD with the HP 2560p support site's newest AHCI drivers and it landed on 3gb/s. Now, my BIOS said i had f.40 at first, and in there was no option to use 6gb/s, so i figured i needed a newer ahci driver so i went to Intel's site and got the 12.0 desktop version instead of the 11.0 i had previously. All that did was give me a few more options in the intel manager software but still no 6gb/s. Well i finally found BIOS f.21 and decided to give it a shot, took a long time to find. When i finally did the windows version of the BIOS update it said i had version f.22, so i downgraded, restarted and viola 6gb/s. I have the before and after crystaldiskmark results but can't post pics yet. about a 150mb difference. Then I did an ATTO test and was getting very close to advertised speeds. Very happy. Still no option in BIOS for switching from 3 to 6 but either way it works now. This is my first SSD and windows boot time and program load is amazing.

Didn't need the half/full height adapter, it just fit. I got the Tyco antenna in today so it's going in Monday when i tear it open to do the lapping, GELID, and cleaning. Odd thing i noticed was there were 3 additional cables tucked under the stock card, (#3, 5 and 6) they are color coded) but i have no idea what they go to. I think i lost bluetooth when i removed the stock card, might have been a dual card, no sure. Some sites claim not and that the broadcom chip at the top of the lcd is the bluetooth. The wireless card is showing better speeds already, so let's hope that last antenna helps. Still have to figure out a upgrade to bluetooth 4.0.

The express card that i ordered was easy to install, i have pics but can't post, it was easy to install, cheap, and sits flush. I plan on leaving it in full time so no option to remove other than with your nail is not a big deal. The issue is that when you pull your flash drive out the card pulls out slightly, just use one finger to hold in and other hand to pull out the usb stick and it's fine. When i open the case i'll try a more permanent method to secure it. stay posted.

The other 4gb stick is in and running in dual channel for 8gb total, 9-9-9-24 timings at 1333, don't think i need more ram really but time will tell once i have the full adobe line installed, maybe then i'll need 16gb.

This laptop really is the nicest one i've owned. Sleek and stylish. It takes everything i throw at it and keeps up. Only issue i noticed is some case vibration on the top where your wrists sit and along the top edges. I just run my finger horizontally on the wrist pad and get strong vibrations. Other than that it's quiet and still. It get's a little warm at times but i thing my cooling upgrades should help. I'll have before and after temps to share as well as the service door mods.

Still waiting for a few more parts so as they go on i'll keep y'all posted.

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INFO: F.28 or newer BIOS removes RAM frequency limit

@kondilac advises at http://forum.techinferno.com/dell-latitude-vostro-precision/9690-14-dell-latitude-e6430-performance-upgrades-system-mods-32.html#post149745

@R.O.G : Check the latest 2560p BIOS (F.60) , since F.28 the ram freq. nerf is removed. I had no problems running @1600 with an i5 in my 2560p.

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On 26/2/2015 at 2:45 AM, Elbobo said:

If anyone is interested, I am now selling a PE4L 2.1b with a 120w ac adapter in Europe.

 

Wow the forum is all stylish now. Congratulations to the mods!

I know it has been a long time and a not so successful attempt for me. But I am still sitting on a PE4L 2.1b and a 120w ac adapter, both all new and working. I am throwing in a case to make a mod in order to fit a graphic card inside as well.

I am selling them for really cheap as I just want to make more space in my room. 

Send me a PM if anyone is interested.

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Hello!

 

By now this topic and the laptop is really old, but I'd like to say hi since I am the new owner of a 2560p since a few days. I was lucky to find a near mint one for €150 with an i7-2640M. I am in the process of upgrading it and this laptop will be my linux machine from now on. The first problem I stumbled upon is the WiFi Whitelist. I mainly wanted Bluetooth 4.0 and Wifi 5 Ghz and I had a spare Intel Dual Band 7260 which I wanted to use, no luck there obviously. Is this limitation still in place with the newer BIOS'es? I'm guessing it is.

 

I am going to upgrade it to an ssd + possibly hdd as well as 16 gb dual channel memory.

 

Now the next thing is battery life. My battery says it is stil at design capacity of 48,7 Wh, but I find that hard to believe. I want to upgrade to a 9-cell battery but the original ones are too expensive and I don't know if the third party batteries are any good. I will keep an eye out.

 

I am running Ubuntu but I am seeing that with almost no cpu use the fan keeps spinning. I have installed and configured powertop and tlp but I am still averaging between 10 and 15 watt while idling and/or browsing. Anyone got an idea how to lower it? And is it possible to undervolt the 2560p?

I also read some things about DC Optimized which supposedly improves battery life, the links that are provided are all dead. What is DC Optimized?

Also does anybody know how to change the fan speed in linux? I'd rather have it run warm and quiet.

 

Lastly I want to know what you think about the CPU. I'd like to upgrade but I can't find any second hand ones apart from a few on Ebay for around $200. I don't think it's worth the money, but I'd like to know what a reasonable price is for the 2820QM.

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