I have a iBuypower CZ-17 laptop, with a 2012 AMI BIOS that has E1762 as the version, which I believe means I have an MSI G70 motherboard. It has a 675MX GPU, but it's not useable in Windows 10 despite being "seen" in the device manager. I believe an updated, unlocked BIOS would fix my issue and have located the thread on this site with the BIOS I need.
First of all, am I right? Will this fresh BIOS make my laptop that originally ran Windows 8 work with this old GPU?
And second, I created this account, will wait 24 hours and made this post. Is that enough to allow me to download the file, or do I need to post elsewhere?
I reversed the input polarity on my m15x jack after a botched psu repair. Computer worked fine, but overall power control is messed up. System only boot on both battery and psu, no battery charge, and a very low battery drain (arround 6wh).
I aways had battery issues whith my 8 years old m15x after my original battery died. Bought a new one two years ago, didn't work. Checked on upower, basically no info on manufacturer, power or history. So i refunded and used the system hooked on the psu as usual. In August i bought a new one, worked flawlessly for a day. The next day the battery died from nowere. Checked upower, bus was ok, battery was charging extremely slowly (6wh), history showed subpar disharge before shutting down. I got mad at this point, decided that psu was to blame. Opened it, checked everything, noticed some wear on the male jack. Resoldered it, connected on computer. Nothing happened, so i checked the voltage. That's when i realised that i screwed up big time. I swaped the positive and negative wires. Decided that one mistake was enough, so i sent my m15x to a trusted repair shop (latter found that they just hooked the battery and gave me back as soon as it booted, they didnt even open it). Got my pc a week later, but the battery didn't charge . Worse, it was slowly discharging (same 6wh as before), and it needed both the psu and the battery to turn on. At 65%, it worked as usual for my college semester, but the battery is dead, and so is my computer. I bellieve i burned some voltage controller or something. I'm pretty competent at soldering thing's (evem smd components) when i know what to do, and i can understand simple circuit's, but when i got my hands on the m15x datasheet i got overblown. I cant make heads or tails about it. I aways lurked this forum and i bellieve your guys are the best when it comes to finding creative solutions to technical problems concerning microelectronics. I followed a guide in this forum as a teenager to upgrade this same computer to a gtx680m, overclocked stuff, got custom bios, and had a lot of fun learning. The m15x is a deprecated platform, but it's a part of my history that i dont want to let go.
So please guys, help me.
Hello Fellow Tech Gurus!
I am having a huge headache after upgrading the ram memory of my m17x r3.
First let me start by saying I have been experiencing issues with my current ram setup recently, and so i decided to replace the ram inside of my computer, thinking they had gone out on me. It originally came with x4 2gb memory sticks, and as I started to experience issue, I started to removed them, and I was down to 1 2gb stick. It seems to me ram slots 1 & 2 are not working properly as when I put ram memory into them I would get BSOD in 5-10 mins of computer usage after boot. So I am thinking the slots have gone out. I also tested each slot individually and still same effect.
So I went on the try out slots 3 & 4 under the keyboard, which seems to work just fine when I use only 1 ram chip in one or the other. But the problem occurs when I try and fill both ram slots in slots 3 & 4 under the keyboard with crucial 2x 8 gb of ram sticks, which total to 16gb total ram memory.
BSOD and freezing occurs like crazy. But if I use just one of the ram sticks in either slot, no problem.
I dunno if this is hardware or software. I am think that my motherboard is on its way out the door, but any suggestions you all have would be great. I have already clean installed win 7, and is currently running bios A10 (unlocked, I believe)
I would also like to note that my motherboards internal vga is not detected, and just noticed this a few days ago upon trying to figure out the ram situation.
other issues is my laptop battery is pretty much dead, and the only for my computer to cut on is if the AC adapter is connected
I would also like to know can 1x 16gb 1600 ram stick run in my computer? or is it not supported by my motherboard?
Alienware M17xR3 (2011 3D FHD ed)
A10 (should be unlocked)
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit)
Intel® Core™ i7-2960XM CPU @ 2.70GHz
Intel® 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family
Nvidia GTX 680m
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
High Definition Audio Device
Networking and I/O
DW1501 Wireless-N WLAN Half-Mini Card
Atheros AR8151 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller (NDIS 6.20)
HMA TAP-Windows Adapter V9
Crucial 8 GB (x2 qty) DDR3 PC3-12800 • CL=11 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1600 • 1.35V • 1024Meg x 64 •
(these only work under bay 3 or 4, but not dual 8gb at the same time, otherwise BSOD)
WDC WDBNCE5000PNC SSD (installed into bay 0)
Hey guys, first post, but I thought I’d discuss my heatsink fan retrofit in my old M14x r1.
Old fan was loud and not very efficient: the air transfer rate was around 2 cfm (I’m assuming cubic feet per minute). Finally had enough and decided to swap out the crappy r1 fan/coughing pinwheel for a r2 fan (rated at 10.4cfm).
I found an old r2 heat sink on eBay (beware though that the heat sink for the r2 will NOT fit the gpu/cpu configuration for the r1. HOWEVER, the fan of the r2 heat sink it is attached to is a carbon copy fit into the r1 MoBo. A few philips head screws and a seal of good electric tape and BAM, you’ve got a significantly cooler and MUCH quieter intake fan in your old R1.
My CPU temps from before were around 87-88 max load in FSX, 65 for the GPU; bear in mind this is after a repaste. Now with the new fan, I’m not going over 77 degrees on the CPU, and the gpu stays around 58, all while being MUCH quiter. I’ll post pics of the walkthrough if anyone is interested.
Just thought I’d share with all you fellow loonies trying to squeeze every last frame and degree out of our “portable toaster ovens with a screen and keyboard”.
Hi again guys,
I have one of those GT783R that disappeared from market very quickly, and one that is probably a lemon. I've tried to replace the processor and the video card so far and the computer still turns off after 3 or 4 minutes. In fact, it's strange because the BIOS shows GT780 instead of GT783R. My guess now is that I have to replace the motherboard.
However, I can't find a spare motherboard for GT783R. I know it's a MS-17611 motherboard, so can I just buy a MS-17611 motherboard or does it have to have other specs to be compatible?
Also, I noticed that there is a ver 1.0 and ver 1.1. Is there a difference between them?
Anyone willing to help me? Please?????