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Similar Content
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By Radstark
Title sums it up.
TL;DR: we have a Clevo that runs a desktop CPU, one with those huge 82 Wh batteries. We remove the GPU and let it use the CPU's integrated graphics. How much time for the battery to go from 100 to 0? Is it comparable to an ultrabook's?
I'm theorizing a mobile set with a static eGPU and an upgradable CPU. Given a hypothetical user that needs fast processing on the go and long battery life while retaining very high degrees of mobility, but at home wants a powerful machine to run most games, I guess that would be their best bet. It would surely be more convenient to keep everything in the same disk. And even though the thing would be quite heavy to carry around, changing CPU would be more cost-efficient than changing an entire laptop. (Not sure if I'm right here, and also I'm not sure whether the motherboard in a Clevo would be replaceable when the new CPU needs a different socket, which is another reason why I'm asking here.)
If my above guesses aren't correct, then an ultrabook with Thunderbolt and without a dedicated GPU would be a better choice. If they are, then we would be carrying more weight in exchange of a more cost-efficient setup, which I think would be a fair tradeoff.
Also I am aware of the heating problems that these laptops suffer from, at least compared to a desktop setup. Would they be solved by moving the GPU out of the chassis, and instead plugging it with an eGPU dock via Thunderbolt port?
What do you think? Is it doable? If not, why?
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By XxBansheexX
I have an M18x R1 running WIN7 PRO NV580M SLI, however second card was removed due to possible issue. I am running Ahmeds Unlocked BIOS A04. Since I removed the second card I am getting a power cycling issue, the battery charges fine and the system runs fine off AC power but when connected to AC with the battery in and as soon as the battery reaches 100% it starts cycling between on battery power and on AC power.
I have performed a system restore. Restored to stock BIOS then back to unlocked BIOS. Pulled battery connected AC and then put battery back in when windows boots. Ran a power drain by holding the power button three times. Booted on battery alone, then booted on power alone. Nothing has worked.
I am hoping someone has run into this issue and can help me. This is a new system to me and has some differences of the M15x I used to have.
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By hharcore
Hi guys , like you can see Im begginer, student and noob from east Eu that accidentaly bought clevo p170hmx few months ago. Specs are
P170hm board
i7 2760qm
8gb ddr3
gtx580m
2x 500gb SSD
FSP standard 220W PSU (I think its 220w 19v-11.57A)
Everything was fine till this weekend I was playing doom4 for 3 hours and Pc just crashed with black screen with sound still runing , than fan went loud with 6 loud beeps . Who crashed said it was TLDR bug. Wrom that point laptop works fine but when I start any game or furmark after few seconds to few minutes it crash with same symptoms. What I did try is , tldr change from 2 to 8 and its same, 10 different drivers with DDU, system reinstall, flashed original vBios on card (i noticed that after first crash memory would stuck to 130-300mhz in games and furmark , after flash it was normal all again but still crash after 1min or less )
Now what I did that gave me result is lowering GPU and memory clocks from 620/1500 to 480/1333 now it looks stable. I couldn find vBios with higher voltages to flash cos Im noob and I did try bios mod with Nbitor but allways ended up with corrupted bios that didnt want to load from cmd with nvflash. I didnt try to flash bios for mobo (p170hm) cos I cant find one and that lead me to registration on this forum. My gustion is whats wrong with my notebook and how to fix it...btw I found nvidia Quadro 3000m but dont know will it work on p170hm, If I cant get p170hm to optimal state Ill go with exp Gdc beast and one hd7970 from my desktop cf system just for fun. Sry for bad English.
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By Khenglish
So back when I got my P150EM, one of the deciding factors on getting it was that due to optimus/enduro, the battery life was respectable. I wanted the top hardware while still having some mobility. Over time though, the battery became more and more worn out, to the point where I hardly got over an hour of life out of it. New batteries are stupidly expensive, and Clevo used cheap cells for it in the first place. I wasn't paying $100 for a mediocre replacement battery. I decided to pay $50 for top end cells to boost capacity by 30% and get over 6h of battery life. I figured that this could get messy, and luckily a friend let me have his nearly dead P150HM battery for me to have some spare parts.
So I swapped the cells, while destroying the plastic battery shell in the process, and got a battery that worked just like it still had the old cells. Figuring I needed to reprogram the EEPROM on the battery pack, I started removing the glue all over the EEPROM chip to get it in my programmer. I stupidly forgot that I was working on a BATTERY, which meant that it was ALWAYS ON, and poured MEK over it, blowing a fuse.
After getting pissed off and giving up for a few months, today I gave it another go. I got the EEPROM chip out and started taking guesses at how to reprogram it. If I guessed wrong, good thing the fuse was blown so I don't melt anything. I figured out that battery EEPROM contains the capacity info in terms of mAh for a pair of battery cells. I searched for the default 5200 mAh (1450 in hex) and found it. I then raised this to 6800 mAh (1A90 in hex). It was a success! Nominal battery capacity was now 100640 mAh total.
So now I knew I could probably program things right after enough tries. It was now time to get the battery operational again. I bridged the fuse, and the battery came back to life. Sort of. It would charge when off, but not on. It would run, but windows reported no battery drain (infinite energy!?!?!?!?). In short, the battery EEPROM was not being updated at all as the battery state changed. I was under the impression that if Ilet it charge, it would not stop until overvoltage protection kicked in, and if I let it discharge, it would not turn off until the system BIOS detected an undervoltage scenario, which is far below the safe discharge voltage of the battery. I figured for the time I'd just let it be and try to get the EEPROM right.
Next was looking for the wear capacity. This is the capacity left in the battery as it ages. Using hwinfo64, I got the wear level, converted it to hex, and found it in the EEPROM. I then changed it to only 5% wear instead of 74%. I left some wear because I did let the cells sit for a few months, and I was directly soldering to the cells, which isn't really good for them due to the heat from the iron. This was a success. Current charge % correctly dropped as well.
So now I needed to get the battery charging right. My only option was to rip apart my old, but fully functional P150EM battery. I found that the fuse was actually really weird with 3 prongs, and only 2 prongs were supposed to have 0 resistance. I had soldered all 3 together on the P150HM battery. I switched the EEPROM chips and boards, then hoped it would work and not require me to run and get the fire extinguisher.
It worked! The battery is now charging properly as I type this. It also discharges right too. It looks like the laptop will try to overcharge it a bit since the current charge % was a little low vs reality, but that should just give it a little extra wear, with the charge % being calibrated properly at 100%.
I'm not sure how I'm going to get that back in the shell...
Continue discussion in original thread here.
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By StamatisX
Samsung's new Galaxy A9, a premium midrange phone with a design of glass and metal will rock a 6-incher FullHD (1080p) AMOLED panel, minimal bezel and 2.74mm width as well as a 4000 mAh battery with fast charging.
The package will include:
A Snapdragon 652 (Quad-core 1.8GHz ARM Cortex A72 + Quad-core 1.2GHz Cortex A53, Adreno 510 GPU) with 3GB of RAM and internal storage of 32GB, expandable with the help of a microSD card. It will come with a 13MP primary camera with a wide f/1.9 aperture and optical image stabilization. On the front there's an 8MP snapper behind an equally bright lens. A fingerprint sensor inside the home button, complete with Samsung Pay support. Wi-Fi a/b/g/n (no ac, though). Bluetooth v4.1 and GPS/Beidou for positioning as well as NFC.
Unfortunately it will come with a Lollipop 5.1 and pricing and availability remain to be detailed.
Source: GSM Arena
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