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    • By Henrik9979
      First I want to thank the community, who have inspired me to do this project.
      I will give you guys the chance to follow me on this journey.
       
      I hope you will all help me come up with ideas, techniques and parts that could become handy.
       
      This modding may be possible to convert to allot of laptops.
       
      Let's begin!
      Here is the measurement of the went hole.
      77mm X 16mm

       
      I have 2 ideas for what can be done.
       
    • By BlazingBrandon
      I own a Clevo P151SM1 that I bought in a hurry last year after my Alienware died on me. It's done a good job of playing everything I've thrown at it but lately, it's been shutting itself off when I play certain games or graphics-heavy programs. When idle it sits around 38C which is great. But when I get into a game it skyrockets up to 97C as the last recorded temp before it shuts itself off. I've cleaned the fans and keep it on an elevated cooling pad (no fans on the pad cause I broke them) but it gets plenty of air. I know that 97C is probably damaging the card and I don't want that. Does it look like I'm going to have to repaste it?  I've attached my latest readings if that would help. 
      HWMonitor.rar
    • By RandyTucker
      Having pondered over a eGPU build I instead decided to put my GPU inside my 15.6 laptop by extending the laptop base. I have a Dell optiplex 390 where my GTX 750ti LP once lived but as I now spend more time with my laptop on the sofa the Dell optiplex is now a donor for my gaming laptop build. I'm using the Dell motherboard for this build. It has a i5-2400 CPU - 8GB DDR3 RAM - MSI GTX 750ti LP GPU. The Dell PSU is too big for this build so I will be using a Seasonic SS-250SU 250W PSU. The laptop used for this build is a Fujitsu LifeBook AH530 that has a 1366x768 LED screen, this screen will be replaced with a higher resolution 1600x900 screen. The extended base of the laptop is now 6.5 cm.
       
      Parts needed to complete the build:
      Seasonic SS-250SU 250W PSU
      PCI Express 16x Flexible Extension cable
      LP156WD1 (TL)(B1) 15.6" LED 1600x900 screen
      LCD Controller Board
      Ultra slim keyboard with touchpad
       
      Work so far in pictures:
       
         








       
       
      Continue reading the full thread here: 
       
    • By Swick1981
      So, here is another version of the m18xR1 bios for your enjoyment.
      Bios Version:  A05
      Update Version: 2.0
       
      **WARNING:  PLEASE NOTE THAT YOUR INTEL ME(Intel Management Engine) MUST BE THE ORIGINAL.  If' you've updated, please make sure you downgrade back to stock Intel ME!  **
       
      I've updated the following:
      Unlocked A05 (slv7's unlocked version)
      iRST 12.9.0,
      Atheros LAN ROM 2.0.6.6
      vbios 2171 (latest) 
      Microcode Updated
      M.2 support (with adapter needed)
      And more...  (But these are all I can remember)
       
      This version RST will work with RAID, TRIM for RAID, etc... 
      ***  This is the MOST STABLE VERSION! ***
       
      If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!
       
      (On a side note - if ANYONE is willing, I MIGHT know how to get legacy to work on 800m+ video cards.  But I need GOOD testers that know how to recovery flash and POTENTIALLY use SPI programmers in case of bad flash)!  PM me if interested!
    • By AleksR17x
      After messing with my Toshiba Qosmio this is where the fun starts for me.
      Hopefully someone else can also use some of this info for their own cooling mods.
       
      So i got this M17x R4 with a broken screen.
      I7 3610, 8 gigs ram, 7970M etc.
       
      Colors were all 70s psycho (LCD panel was cracked)
      Replaced almost the whole laptop with new parts, brand new 120hz screen, brand new 3920xm, almost new Gtx 880M Oem dell from an M18.
      New SSD drive among other things.
       
      The question presents itself, how to cool the thing down some more.
       
      I took out the Cpu heatsink, added another Pipe. Turns out the ones i had was too short and fluid filled.
      Had to use my biggest iron and solder it shut before using epoxy on it to be sure. 
       
       



      Grinded off some rough edges and smoothed out the transition where the fins are.
      This Metal epoxy is doing an alright job transferring heat from the core pad to the fins aswell.
       
      I thought about buying the M17x R5 4 pipe cpu heatsink on ebay and modify it to fit.
      I wont dremel off the aluminum bracket (upper left in this image) to make the 4th pipe fit, because then the lower cover will be losing out on a clip.
      I hate loose panels so will look into cutting the 4th pipe on the 4 pipe cooler just before it reaches the chassis.
      As you can see in the picture i need to grind off a piece of the aluminum just over the inner bend to make the most out of the 4th pipe if i go that route later
       

       
      And so to the GPU, there is hardly enough room to fit a pipe over these three. I ordered 10 or so packets of heatsinks and coolers from some small gaming notebooks, i will get this next month.
      Im thinking a wide pipe that i bring to a friend of mine for flat machine pressing, or a cnc machined flat piece of aluminum over here. I dont think The ebay R5 - 5 pipe will work with the stock bottom as is.
       

       
      The GPU fan, i will buy a packet of small "P" gaskets and show you what i mean with forced cold air induction tomorrow.
      Im not an engineer, but why add the hole under the keyboard. Hot air goes up not down.
      On the Qosmio adding the gasket around the Fan and blocking the upper nonsense vent lowered the temps by quite a few degrees C
       

       
      And finally the gaps around the fins, there will be some of the same gasket here.
      No need to waste precious airflow from this (in my mechanical world) puny fan.
       

       
      In this image you can see the bracket covering the inner Pipe, so a straight flat pipe will do it or the machined piece im thinking about.
      Also around the edges of the fins around 5 pct of the airflow is returning back into the case. And what the heck were they thinking when they made the heatsink fins naked at the bottom leaking hot air everywhere.
      Even Toshiba knew they hat to cover it to keep air flowing the right way.. outside of the case.
       
      -------------------------
      To be continued
      ------------------------
       
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