I am requesting your help. I have an Acer e5-523g, and I have applied the method with h2ouve mentioned in this forum to activate the amd-v feature, and it worked. But everytime on two, when the system was shutting down, whether intentionally or low battery, the virtualization was going back to deactivate. And I always repeated the same process. Until one day: when I enter in the cmd, everytime I tap “h2ouve -gv vars.txt” or “h2ouve -sv vars_mod.txt” it shows sth like:
Now parsing Variable Information...
GetLastError=0x2 Failed to get bios data!
Fail to get Variable Information
My problem is that I don’t really know what LoadDriverDevice means, and how to make it work
(EXP GDC Beast v8.4d mPCI-E + GTX970 + ATX PSU) eGPU project for Lenovo IdeaPad Z710, i7-4700MQ, 16GB RAM, SSD, GeForce GT745MBy damianalex
I want to show you my new project.
I bought my laptop about 5 years ago. It was never speed deamon, but for every day use, it was enough to me.
Nvidia GeForce GT745M
512 SSD Adata SU800
Yesterday I bought Witcher 3. Of course on 1080p it's impossible to play, because of about 10fps
So I make a decision to buy external grahpic card.
I choose GTX970 and now I am looking for occasion to buy it.
I've already bought EXP GDC v8.4d mPCI-E. It is used and cost about 30$.
I will use ATX PSU to supply graphic card, because I have old desktop PSU at home.
1) unlock bios
2) buy GTX 970
3) enjoy Witcher 3!
BTW I try to cool down my laptop, so I replaced thermal paste to Kryonout Thermal Grizzly and make some tests. Temperatures and fps are on screenshots.
1) laptop on table, playing GTA V 1080p
- first minute (GPU core 1045MHz)
-after some time, because of high temperature and GPU throlttling (GPU core drop down even to 400MHz)
2) with thermalpad Glacier NC400 SilentiumPC
- 30 minute and longer (GPU core drop to about 900MHz)
3) without down case of laptop (like on picture with thermal paste) on thermalpad.
Here laptop never drops down MHz and max temp are about 72 Celsius degrees.
Bacause of that I bought second down case for my laptop and I will cut there additional holes.
I will describe next step when I get all stuff I need!
some time by now I flashed a custom Vbios (thank you Klem) on an Acer Predator 15 G9-591 and I started doing some tests about how far I could go overclocking the gtx 970m without running too hot. With the voltage up to 1150mV and something like 300 additional MHz for the core clock, in the strongest stress condition for both Gpu and Cpu ( i7-6700hq undervolted), the Gpu reaches a max temp of 85C (with some 86 spikes but never more than that).
Considering that soon I'm going to relid both Cpu and Gpu and clean everything in the internals (laptop is 4 years old) I think I'm going to have some additional heatroom.
I've already tested some further overclocking and I noticed that even if the temperatures remains under 93C (which is just for testing purposes, but after relidding temps could be nicer) graphical glitches occur and after some time most games crash. But my question is, could it be because of lack of power supply? The laptop charger provides 180W
Could there be an increase in overclock margins with a 230W psu or something like that? (Obviously with the same 19.5V output)
If anybody tried something like that on any laptop model, or knows the matter, I'd like to know
Hey everyone! After lots of searching it looks like this is the go-to place for laptop mods online, so I figured this would be the best place to ask something like this.
I picked up a Dell E6530 for basically scrap value, and I love the thing. Runs Xubuntu great, battery is halfway decent, and I can play 99% of the games I own on it. My friend on the other hand picked up an E6440 with its silver-ish finish along the back. As much as I love my 6530 I've gotta say, that thing looks great.
To get to the point now, I was wondering if it's possible for me to polish the top of the lid on my 6530 to have a more silver finish like that (or maybe even a mirror finish if I sand it down with a fine enough grit). Really what I want to know is if the dark grey part of the lid is actually metal. I can't seem to get a definitive answer online, and I tried the magnet test on it and it wasn't magnetic at all. This doesn't necessarily mean it's not metal though, as aluminum isn't magnetic but is obviously a sandable/polishable metal. One source said the laptop has anodized aluminum parts on it, but they didn't specify whether it was something internal or external.
Can anyone here provide me some insight? If the grey part is definitely a metal and not a plastic, I think I'm gonna give it a try. As stated before I got this thing for scrap value, so if in the end it doesn't work out I'm not gonna cry over it or anything. Still though, I'd rather not run into this blind. If this is indeed possible though and I can accomplish what I want with a decent looking result, I'll post up some pictures with the method I used for others to do as well.
Thanks in advance!