Yet another M17x R3 upgrade thread

[kachunkachunk]

Hello Everyone,

 

So I've gone through somewhat of a gauntlet while getting my aging M17x R3 upgraded, but I've overcome these issues so far. Here were my specs upon ordering:

• Intel Core i7 2720QM processor
• 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 SODIMM memory
• Nvidia GeForce GTX 580m graphics adapter
• 120hz 3D panel
• Killer wireless NIC

 

The biggest problem was the thermal throttling issues with the GTX 580m from day one (and despite an RMA with Alienware) - it made my "gaming laptop" quite useless. I finally lately decided to bite the bullet and upgrade the notebook. I'm traveling for a while later this year and wanted to be able to game without assembling another desktop or bringing a console.

 

These are the upgrades I've completed as of late. Note that I'm mostly just listing this out so anyone reading knows that it's possible, but if there's anything notable that I felt might be a bit less known, I'll bring it up:

• RAM - Went from 16 to 32GB of memory (two Corsair CMSX16GX3M2B1600C9 2x8GB kits), from local Canada Computers store.
  • Some folks had issues getting 32GB to show up. You need a quad-core processor, for starters. The rest may be due to timings/speed of the RAM not playing nice.
• GPU - Went from the awful GTX 580m to a much more efficient 680m.
  • The throttling issues are now completely resolved. I got mine from Eurocom, which comes with an X-Bracket, screws, thermal pads.
  • As others have instructed, you will need to disable driver signature enforcement in Windows 8.x and 10, before installing modded .inf Nvidia drivers. You CAN do this permanently, but I would not really recommend it. It's there for a reason.
  • There is indeed a bit of song and dance involved for the install. You need the an unlocked BIOS first, then you need to reset that to defaults and get your system back into working order (IMO). Following that, go ahead and use the common instructions posted around to install your new GPU:
    • Remove your GPU drivers.
    • Reboot into the BIOS again to disable your integrated sound, and the integrated GPU, and/or force the PCIe/PEG adapter to be primary. Do not skip this.
    • Save, shut down, do your GPU install. And take your time - the thermal pads may be quite stubborn/stuck. It should show up fine on next power-on if you did everything right. And to reiterate for some people - by upgrading your GPU in this manner (and outside of the supported/offered selection for your system), you forfeit 3D Vision, and non-120hz users lose Optimus.
      • Some of the provided thermal pads from Eurocom were way too thick and I had to cut them in in half.
      • Even then, some thermal pads needed to be reused from the old 580m setup. The new ones are thinner, and fewer in quantity. Hopefully if you encounter this kind of issue, yours aren't all crumbled and dead. I'd suggest ordering extra thermal pads if you plan to do a GPU upgradem just to be safe.
      • The 580m heatsink fits the 680m with only very minor differences. You can make up for them by altering thermal pad layout over some of the other components (VRM count is different, slight chip arrangement difference). Do a visual inspection and you will see these differences.
    • Windows will look quite nasty after your first boot with the card in. Just follow typically posted instructions to reboot with Driver Signature Verification disabled, and proceed with driver install using a custom .inf (head over to forums.laptopvideo2go.com).
• WLAN - Intel 7260AC wireless NIC with Bluetooth 4.0
  • I'll start off by explaining that our M17x R3s have a mini-PCIe half-length slot for WLAN, so you're limited to only a few devices out there. This thing has integrated Bluetooth.
  • I went in knowing that people have issues getting Bluetooth to work on these cards in their Windows 10 systems (in all kinds of brands and hardware, not just M17x R3s), so I started off with a conservative approach of detaching my stock Dell Bluetooth radio (near the left speaker).
  • WLAN works great. But despite my efforts, I'm going to conclude at this point that our mini-PCIe slot does NOT appear to have a connection to a USB controller, so dual-function WLAN cards with Bluetooth like this one (Intel 7260AC) will only offer wireless, and no Bluetooth.
  • Otherwise in my case, it was a drop-in, seamless experience getting it working in Windows. Update the drivers if you like. But the Bluetooth module will not show up in Windows or Linux; likely no pins/connection to it, at all, I reckon. Use the original Dell Bluetooth module in your notebook.
  • Oh and finally the antenna arrangement - the original N devices typically have three antenna leads. Your AC device may not. Use the Black and White wires, as these may run a bit more favorably/optimally behind your screen. You should also tape over and secure the dangling grey wire so it doesn't short anywhere.

 

Here's one more thing I have on-order, should have it by the end of next week. I think it'll be an easy drop-in.

• CPU - Intel Core i7 2920XM processor
  • Apparently also requires a custom BIOS. I'll have it in place already for the GPU.

 

I should note that there was a CPU performance issue after I flashed the custom BIOS and configured it to my liking after resetting it to defaults - evidently the PROCHOT setting arbitrarily registers as overheating, so the CPU stays stuck at ~800MHz. Disabling this in the BIOS solves that problem but nothing else does. I tried disabling and enabling all kinds of other power savings options and functionality, to no avail.

 

I also found it was still occasionally stuck at around 75% of the maximum clock speeds of my processor despite being stressed. I haven't totally figured it out, but I am aware of two possible steps that resolve that for me:

• Using ThrottleStop's Clock Modulation setting at 100% for a few seconds, and unchecking that box again after, seemed to also fix my problem at least once or twice.
• When that does not work, the AC adapters I have are original Dell units but at least one of them will more often reproduce the issue. Re-plugging the adapter several times seems to fix it finally. I have to look closer at this one, and I'm really hoping it's not due to a loose/damaged power connector. I don't think it should be, considering that connectivity is never in question.

 

If I can nail it down further, I'll update this post. And I'll see if the occasional power capping behavior happens again for the 2920XM. Probably will.

Edited September 26, 2016 by kachunkachunk

[kachunkachunk]

Received the 2920XM and it worked flawlessly out of the gate. It, too, sees occasional cold boots with some sort of power capping going on. And as of today I confirm that I can get the clocks back to 100% capability if I unplug/replug the power/barrel connector.

 

The sad news however is that my GTX 680m died randomly a couple of days ago while idling in the desktop. Couldn't get the system to POST (6 beeps), tried pulling power and the CMOS battery (including holding power for 30 seconds), still no POST and no backlight/display. Swapped back in my 580m, works fine (thank goodness). Reset unlocked A12 BIOS to defaults, set things up for a new GPU install all over again (disabled IDT/audio, IGP, set PEG/PCIe as primary), swapped back in the 680m, but again no POST.

 

I'm hopefully able to return the GPU to Eurocom, since I've decided it's better to put money toward a new laptop at this rate, and I can't really lug around extra parts Just In Case Something Happens when on a trip.

 

Ah well. At least I hope this info all helps someone out there.

[Mr. Tom]

This individual deserves a huge thanks!  A superb job of documenting his experience.  Threads like this are why I decided to join this forum.  Now I just need to find one that addresses my issue before I start a new thread and then get flamed for not taking the time to review the extended history and existing knowledge base.