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    • By Sparkhunter
      Hi there guys,
       
      I've been looking into getting a new GPU for my laptop (4-lane PCI-e) and enclosure (HP Omen Enclosure) but I cannot decided between the RX 5700 XT and the RTX 2070 (non SUPER).
       
      I did some price to performance calculations (higher is better) with some of the best prices I can currently get in the UK.
       

       
      The RX 5700 XT does perform better and is cheaper than the RTX 2070 (Although the 2070 does come with 2 games) but my main concern is drivers and from what I've heard NVIDIA cards work a lot better with eGPUs than AMD.
       
      If anyone has experience using both red & green or if anyone else has any other input i'd love to hear your experiences and input.
       
      Thanks.
       
    • By Solaire
      Hello everyone,
      some time by now I flashed a custom Vbios (thank you Klem) on an Acer Predator 15 G9-591 and I started doing some tests about how far I could go overclocking the gtx 970m without running too hot. With the voltage up to 1150mV and something like 300 additional MHz for the core clock, in the strongest stress condition for both Gpu and Cpu ( i7-6700hq undervolted), the Gpu reaches a max temp of 85C (with some 86 spikes but never more than that).
      Considering that soon I'm going to relid both Cpu and Gpu and clean everything in the internals (laptop is 4 years old) I think I'm going to have some additional heatroom.
      I've already tested some further overclocking and I noticed that even if the temperatures remains under 93C (which is just for testing purposes, but after relidding temps could be nicer) graphical glitches occur and after some time most games crash. But my question is, could it be because of lack of power supply? The laptop charger provides 180W 
      Could there be an increase in overclock margins with a 230W psu or something like that? (Obviously with the same 19.5V output)
      If anybody tried something like that on any laptop model, or knows the matter, I'd like to know
    • By jasonmerc
      Hey everyone!  After lots of searching it looks like this is the go-to place for laptop mods online, so I figured this would be the best place to ask something like this.
       
      I picked up a Dell E6530 for basically scrap value, and I love the thing.  Runs Xubuntu great, battery is halfway decent, and I can play 99% of the games I own on it.  My friend on the other hand picked up an E6440 with its silver-ish finish along the back.  As much as I love my 6530 I've gotta say, that thing looks great.
       
      To get to the point now, I was wondering if it's possible for me to polish the top of the lid on my 6530 to have a more silver finish like that (or maybe even a mirror finish if I sand it down with a fine enough grit).  Really what I want to know is if the dark grey part of the lid is actually metal.  I can't seem to get a definitive answer online, and I tried the magnet test on it and it wasn't magnetic at all.  This doesn't necessarily mean it's not metal though, as aluminum isn't magnetic but is obviously a sandable/polishable metal.  One source said the laptop has anodized aluminum parts on it, but they didn't specify whether it was something internal or external.
       
      Can anyone here provide me some insight?  If the grey part is definitely a metal and not a plastic, I think I'm gonna give it a try.  As stated before I got this thing for scrap value, so if in the end it doesn't work out I'm not gonna cry over it or anything.  Still though, I'd rather not run into this blind.  If this is indeed possible though and I can accomplish what I want with a decent looking result, I'll post up some pictures with the method I used for others to do as well.
       
      Thanks in advance!
    • By ounces
      After spending significant time and effort to obtain "DC" screen for 8770w (which is essentially a regular IPS panel with fancy board that converts 8bpc LVDS to 10bpc DP), I have finally got and installed one. All works great, except of the one problem...

      It has pretty bad banding / posterization in lower shadows. I have tried profiling it in different modes (full range, sRGB, rec709) - issue persists, and it indeed shows only in the lowest part of the characteristic curve. Mids and highlights are represented fine and show low deviation from reference values.

      GPU is HP K4000M, Nvidia drivers installed "as it is", video-card is identified without a hitch.
      Banding was not present with the original TN panel using the same GPU.
       
      While checking a software side, I have noticed that Win10 has bit depth set to 8-bit...
       

       
      My initial reaction was, - "Easy, let's change it in `nvidia-settings` and we're all set":

      ...but that would be too easy, right? After selecting 10bpc and clicking "Apply" screen went off and back on, only to show that depth stayed at 8bpc. Repeating the above few times yielded exactly the same result and I'm not in a hurry to meet a cliched (and laymen) definition of insanity.
       
      Let's check GPU-Z. So far so good, nothing unusual. Notice the highlighted BIOS version and subvendor string:
       
      Time to delve into other tabs. We are running WDDDM v2.4 which supports GPU dithering, but hey... BIOS version has changed!
       
      Briefly back to `nvidia-settings` to check what is reported by vendor's own utility:

       
      So far, we have two strings for BIOS version:
      80.04.5A.00.02 (let's call it an "A") 80.4.33.0.37 (let's call it a "B")  
      Notice how 2nd one seems to not follow hexademical notation. Lastly, "NVIDIA BIOS" drop-down, reports "A" version:
       
      ...and monitor section which confirms that rig is indeed capable of 10bpc, but currently running at mere 8bpc:

       
      Windows "Adapter settings", reports version "B". It's 2019, diversity is a must.

       
      "NVidia inspector" is of the same opinion:

       
      Now, let's use some seriously legit tools and check-in exported BIOS file in `nvflash`:

       
      Here we have two three interesting findings:
      Reported vendor is Dell, not an HP. See this link for details. BIOS version is back to "A". Have I already mentioned diversity? MXM module uses MX25L2005 flash storage in WSON-8 packaging. If things go real nasty, we should be able to rescue a patient via Pomona clip and external programmer.  
      Loading the same file in "Kepler BIOS tweaker" confirms the facts:

       
      EDID settings, courtesy of NVidia Control Panel. Hex dump can be found at the bottom of this post.
      ...Shall I be worried about "60.02Hz" refresh rate?
       
      To summarize:
      Why two different BIOS versions are reported? Anything to do with UEFI (e.g. HP is sideloading its own during boot)?.. Why two different vendors reported? As far as I remember, this is branded HP GPU. Where to get "clean" BIOS of K4000M for future experiments? Ideally from 8770w equipped with "DreamColor" panel from a factory.  
      Link to the dumps, BIOS ROM and monitor EDID: https://mega.nz/#F!zGgRmQIL!9q2QFZtHuK2RQ-WHXMA4Mg (also attached to this post)
      K4000M.zip
    • By Blocker35
      Hi guys, bit of a rookie to the whole EGPU scene. Currently I have:
       
      - MacBook Pro 2015 13inch (3.1GHz Core i7 16GB RAM)
      - Razer X Core 
      - Apple TB3 to TB2 Adapter
      -  TB2 Cable (Cable Matters)
      - 23inch AOC External Monitor
       
      I am wonder about what graphics card to get to run X-Plane11 with high graphic settings?
      I have purgewrangler set up and ready to use with an AMD graphics card, but am also open to the idea of an Nvidia graphics card.
      Any advice appreciated. I did not buy a Windows PC as I need a Mac for various other things and wanted an all-in-one laptop.
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